The Lost Coast

The Lost Coast is in the King Range National Conservation Area, about 10 hours from Santa Monica.   Many of the reviews on this hike describe it as moderate to strenuous.  Even though there is relatively little elevation gain, it is tough because of the boulders and cobblestone and soft sand on the beach. Unless you get lucky and are able to find a spot on Buck Creek to break up the last day hike, you will be hiking 10 miles on the last day.  
The best way to hike the lower trail, which is 25 miles one way, is to park a car at Shelter Cove (Black Sands Beach) and take a shuttle to the north trailhead, which is at Mattole Beach, then hike back to your car.  
To get to Shelter Cove, take the 101 to the Garberville exit.  You will need to stop at Whitethorn to pick up a bear canister ($5), get a tide chart, and fill out a permit (free) at BLM main office on the way (its on Shelter Cove Road).   Then continue to Black Sands Beach parking lot at the very end of the road, by turning right and going up the hill to the bluff.  There are signs at the turn. It is about 1  1/2 hours after you exit from the 101 to get to Black Sands Beach because of the windy road.  
There are a few shuttle services that will drive you to the north to start your hike at Mattole Beach.  After looking on Yelp, I chose Lost Coast Adventure Tours with Blu.  He was very informative, helpful, and patient with us as we arrived late and gathered our things.  (707) 986-9895.  It is about a 2 1/2 hour drive, even though it is 25 miles on the beach, it is a very windy road and takes awhile!
To break up the drive, I highly recommend a place I found on airbnb in Ukiah.  We stayed there before the hike, and also after the hike.  Nikola was the sweetest hostess and left things in our room like bandaids and tiger balm, and fresh cut roses.  The thing we appreciated the most was the huge double shower and double sinks in the bathroom!  
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/9924417
I went with my son who is a monster hiker.  I love to hike, but I can't keep up with him!  We decided to do the hike in three nights and four days.  There are many hikers who opt to do it in two nights and three days.  We even heard from Blu that someone ran the entire trail.  Even at the pace we did, I felt rushed.  I could have spent two more nights there in some of the camping spots we passed that were vacant and absolutely beautiful. I guess it all depends on what you want out of this magical, serene, rugged place.  I want to say that the times when I stopped and filled water at the stream, or sat on a perfectly curved driftwood chair, were the times that I saw the wildlife and I was so happy that I took that moment to stop! Also, plan but be prepared to change your itinerary.  You may want to hike more or less on some days than you expected!
Also note that you will more than likely encounter forest rangers on your hike and they may ask you four important questions that you should know the answers to or risk a fine:  know if you allowed to make a fire (depending on the dryness and the season), where to go to the bathroom (below the high tide mark, not in the forest near drinking water), have your permit tag on one of your packs, and have a bear canister!  

Day 1 -  Mattole Beach to Sea Lion Gulch and beyond!
Approximately 6 miles in 3 hours
50 feet elevation gain
Lots of hard pack dirt, some soft sand and cobblestones
One point at the 2.5 mile mark, where you will need to make it around the point before high tide.

We got off the shuttle around 3:00 p.m. and started our hike.  It was perfect hiking weather with 61 degrees and some clouds.  We checked the tides and knew we could make it around the point without a problem.  There were a few hikers starting out at the same time but we waited for them to go and really had the trail to ourselves.  The Punta Gorda Lighthouse was built in 1910 and overlooks a rookery of elephant seals at 3.75 mile mark, and you can climb up the rickety and tiny metal spiral staircase to the top for an amazing view!  The wind picked up, so we opted not to camp at Sea Lion Gulch and found a pointed boulder on the other end of the gulch that offered a great windbreak.  It wasn't big enough for two tents, but my two-person tent sufficed for both of us.  

Day 2 - Sea Lion Gulch to Spanish Flat
Approximately 7 miles in 4 hours
120 feet elevation gain
4 miles of soft sand, cobblestone, and boulders on the beach
4 miles of beach that is impassable at high tide

We checked our tide chart as the first part of our hike would have to be done before high tide.  Low tide was at 2:14 p.m. at 1.84 feet.  The four foot section is impassable at 3.5 feet.  You should pass the "impassable during high tide" 2-3 hours before the low tide mark., because low tide is the low point and will start to rise again after this.  We slept in and ate before we packed up.  We started hiking around 11 a.m. and even though I was nervous about making the 4 mile trek in time before the tide rose, we did not have a problem.  There are plenty of places to fill up water on this day as you cross at least three creeks.  
There is an overland detour that is easy to miss if you do not look for it.  The visual cue is a balancing rock.  Look up once you see the rock and you will see the post for the trail.


If you look up the ridge to the left, you will see the post for the LCT sign and the mark of the trail.  The trail continues through the gulch.
Anything past the balancing rock IS IMPASSABLE even during low tide, so if you miss the trail you could get in trouble. 
There is also a junction for the Cooskie Creek Spur trail.  You want to continue on the Lost Coast trail the entire trek.  




We passed Randall Creek which is at the north end of Spanish Flat.  It was closed for 1/4 mile to camp, but it was an amazing spot to stop and have lunch. 



We hiked up the bluff from here and stayed on the beach in Spanish Flat for the second night. We set up camp and had tons of time to read and hang on the beach.  There is a little makeshift dam at the creek and a small pond to wade in, which I used to wash my face and clean up a bit!   It rained at night but cleared by the morning.  

 

Day 3 - Spanish Flat to Miller Flat
Approximately 7 miles in 4-5 hours
100 ft. elevation gain
No impassable sections

The first part of the day we were hiking on the beach and slowly maneuvering on the boulders and rocks.  At 4.6 miles, the trail continues on top of a terrace, and on to grassy fields.  At mile 7 we reached Big Creek and just beyond that, in the forested part is Miller Flat and where we decided to camp.  I could not believe we were the only ones camping in the forest!  We kept running into two rather large groups of boy scouts, but never seemed to be bothered by them during camping times!  It rained again this night but once again cleared by the morning.  The rain made the aromas of the woods pop out, and I enjoyed my camp spot on the sweet smelling grass.  There are plenty of animals that live here, including a scolding raccoon that circled both our campsites and the boyscouts camp and kept us awake as it looked for food.  The deer seem almost tame and unaffected by humans.  And watch out for snakes that like to seek shade under driftwood.  I spotted one on one of the larger driftwood near the campsite on the beach. 



Day 4 - Miller Flat to Black Sands Beach
Approximately 10 miles in 5 hours
75 foot elevation gain
Impassable section from Miller Flat to Gitchell Creek - approximately 3.9 miles long.  

It felt good to sleep in once again as we waited for high tide to peak.  Our chart showed high tide at 10:04 a.m. at 4.1 feet.  The strategy is to start as close as you can to this peak but still make it safely around the points on the beach.  We left at 11:30 a.m. and it was still rather high and we had to scurry around some of the points in between wave sets.  There will be plenty of opportunities to fill up water during this trek.  You will pass two camp areas, Shipman Creek and Buck Creek, and there also seems to be water leaking from every cliff as well!  This is a tough trek, as you will be navigating on boulders and hoping that you won't sprain an ankle!  There is plenty of soft sand too until you reach two significant boulders on the beach.  This is at mile 8.2 and you will be heading into the home stretch.  We were so excited to see the boulders!  The beach also widens and the sand is harder packed near the waves.  You will be able to see the homes on Shelter Cove, and the trailhead up to the parking lot is before the homes.  

Zuma Ridge Hike

Zuma is a Chumash word meaning "abundance,"  and this hike affords you abundant views of the valleys, ravines and mountain ridges of the beautiful Santa Monica Mountains and the Pacific Ocean from a peak at 2400 feet above sea level.  It is a 5.9 mile hike one way, and a car drop off at Busch Drive trailhead, then driving up Kanan Road to Encinal Canyon where the trailhead starts.  It took about 3 hours to hike including a stop for a picnic on a boulder with a vast view of the ocean.  

Zuma Ridge trail begins off of Encinal Road by a Fire Camp and is a reverse hike (meaning you are hiking the easier way by descending most of the time).  The hike begins with about a two-mile long 1100 foot ascent to the top of the ridge,where you pass the infamous Buzzards Roost estate, then descend about 4 miles and 2400 feet to the Busch Drive parking lot.  
This hike is much easier on a brisk winter day, as it is a sunny hike with very little shade for about 4 miles.  It can be uncomfortably hot in the summer.  

The trail begins at the Fire Camp dirt road.  You will see signs for Zuma Ridge trailhead when you head north from the parking lot.  It is a large fire road trail that you will be hiking, and an easy hike.  You will begin to ascend when you turn towards the ocean.  At the very top of the ridge, you will see a crop of pine trees, and the entrance to the Buzzards Roost estate.  It is the most remote and private residence in Malibu with 360 degree views for 100 miles on clear days.  Veer off to the right and remain on the trail, and you will see a stump and bench that overlooks one of the first and most dramatic views of the ocean.  There is a little trail to the right if you want to see it from a higher point of view.  

Most of the rest of the hike, you are descending to sea level.  
Stop along the way to see westward views of Boney Ridge, Sandstone Peak (the highest peak in the Santa Monica Mountains) and Trancas/Edison trail.  To the east, you can see radio towers that are off of Corral Canyon and the boulder outcropping by the radio tower by Saddle Peak off of Piuma Road (see my Corral Canyon and Saddle Peak hike blogs!).  When you get to a fork on the trail, veer right to stay on Zuma Ridge.  
It seems like you can see forever on a clear winter day.  It is an absolutely beautiful hike.  

For the car drop off at Busch Dr, take Pacific Coast Highway from Santa Monica, pass Pepperdine and about 7 more miles you will pass Kanan Dume Road.  A mile more and you will see Busch Drive next to a little commercial zone.  Turn right, and continue on Busch Drive to the end, where there will be a dirt parking lot.  Drop off a car here.  Then retrace back to Kanan Dume Road.  Turn left on Kanan, and about 6 miles turn left onto Mulholland Drive, then bear left on Encinal Canyon.  After 2-3 miles you will see L.A. County Fire Camp on the left.  Turn up the dirt road and the trailhead will be on the right.  

Santa Paula Canyon and the Punchbowl Hike

Tomas Aquinas College, Hoary Yerba Santa flowers, and
the creek along the trail.

Jeff and I wanted to do a wildflower motorcycle ride that was closer to us than Antelope Valley, so we decided to go the back route to Ojai through Santa Paula on the 150.  There was  a hike in the backcountry of Santa Paula that I remember hiking when the kids were little, and that just might have waterfalls and swimming holes too!! So off we went, leaving Torrance at 2 p.m. We were rewarded with the fragrances of spring and unexpected wildflower croppings, and a nice warm ride through back country.  We ran out of time and could not finish the 8 mile hike, but we did get to witness the pink moment (more on this later) and golden hour photos.  



 It was about a two hour drive with the usual Sunday traffic on the 405.  We took the 405 to the 101 North, and then exited on the Central Avenue exit in Camarillo.    Even this part of the ride was full of spectacular fragrances from orange blossoms to strawberries to Eucalyptus trees.  It was amazing!!

Thomas Aquinas College, founded in 1971, is a Roman Catholic school that only has one focus and one single integrated academic program - liberal arts.  It prides itself on the curriculum of the Great Books of the Western Tradition and has approximately 350 students.  Unmarried females and males must live on-campus in separate dorms.  There are no sororities or frat houses, and no alcohol on campus. Thirteen percent have cars.  Dang!  The closest pizza joint is at least 6 miles away!!   But I must admit, the campus is beautiful, with the backdrop of the green hills and yellow mustard.  

The first 1.3 miles is pavement that meanders through the campus, parking lots, and orchards. 


Then there are the oil rigs and caution signs that state "going off the trail could be harmful to your health."  The history of oil in this area dates back to 1861, when Josiah Stanford completed an 80-foot tunnel on the south flank of Sulphur Mountain.  Eventually 54 tunnels were dug using mostly Chinese Labor in the 1860's , making this method the most oil-producing in California.  The crude from the tunnels were delivered to Ventura in horse-drawn wagons and some of it was then shipped to San Francisco.  Another fun fact that my engineering boyfriend will enjoy is that Union Oil Company dug the Boarding House tunnel in 1890 using an old ancient method copied from ancient Egyptians that tunneled tombs in the Libyan mountains:  mirrors reflecting sunlight into the tunnel.  Thirty-two of the original fifty-four tunnels were still producing in 1997, and still experience dramatic production increases after earthquakes!    

TopaTopa Bluff in the background

Enjoy the results of the earthquake activity as you hike through this area.  Topatopa Bluffs is easily recognizable as bare, layered sediment and one of the highest points on the hike.  It is at an elevation of approximately 6000 feet above sea level, and is part of the Transverse Range system which is separated from the rest of the ranges by the San Andreas Fault.  In fact, the east-west axis of this mountain range is a result of a pronounced step in the fault.  Since the crust atop the Pacific Plate does not easily make the turn westward as it moves northwest, the pieces of crust are forced to compress and lift, giving us the beautiful mountains in this area.  This range includes the Santa Ynez Mountains, the San Gabriel and San Bernadino Mountains, the Santa Monica Mountains and the islands of San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz and Anacapa of the Channel Islands.  



Not only do you have the amazing history and geological formations to admire, but in the spring

Sticky Monkey Flower

there are lots of wildflowers.  We saw Indian Paintbrush, Sticky Monkey Flower, Litlle Venus' Looking Glass, Hoary Yerba Santa, and Coast Wall Flower.  Also there is plenty of shady spots in this hike, and you follow along a creek.  Its really beautiful!!
After the hike, follow highway 150 North to the town of Ojai.  See if you can catch the pink moment!!  It is when Topatopa Bluffs, due to the unique east-west face, captures the reflection of the sun as it sets.  Then try Deer Creek Lodge on the other side of Ojai, for dinner and drinks in a unique setting before heading home on Highway 33 on the other end of Ojai.  
This adventure will take the entire day!  You will need two hours both ways to complete the hike. 

Entrance to the hike is
to the right of the rock arch

To get to Tomas Aquinas College and the beginning of the hike, take the 101 West to Camarillo, and exit Central Avenue.  In 2.7 miles, turn right on N. Rose Avenue, then another 1.5 miles to CA 118W.  Turn left.  In 2.2 miles enter CA 126 East.  Then exit on CA 150 West/ S. 10th Street.  Follow this road out of town 5.8 miles to Tomas Aquinas College.  Park north of the gate in the dirt parking lot.  Walk over the bridge back to the gate and through the campus, following the "hikers" signs for 1.3 miles.  
When the pavement ends, follow the dirt trail past the fenced rigs.  When you reach the avocado groves, take the trail that follows the creek.  If you went up to the orchards, you are on the wrong trail!!  
We hiked about another 45 minutes on this trail.  We never made it back to the bouldered swim holes.  So this hike will have to be added on to later!!  Enjoy!!  

Frazier Park and Perseid Meteor Shower

Mt. Pinos, Frazier Park

Want to make wishes on hundreds of falling stars?  Well, you actually have this chance annually in August when the phenomenon meteor shower attracts hundreds of stellar and planetary enthusiasts to clear evening skies!!   This is difficult to do in Los Angeles and near the coast, as light pollution and cloud covers are difficult to thwart, but if you head to the mountains or the desert the conditions are....stellar!!!  A few hours from Los Angeles, Mount Pinos in Frazier Park affords hiking in the pines to breathtaking views of Ventura County and San Juaquin Valley as well as a peek of the Pacific Ocean, and the parking lot at night is full of astronomy enthusiasts.   But before you head out, lets clear a few misconceptions about the shooting "stars" and give you some facts to take to the hike and viewing!  

An astronomer took this
3 nights ago

Comets are not falling stars, but particles of dust and dirt held together in a matrix of frozen ice.  When the comet nears the Sun, the ice melts and the comet sheds particles of dust, which then spreads out into space over millennium of time.  Each separate particle creates a  meteoroid.  When the particle is in space it is called a meteoroid, when it enters the Earths atmosphere it is referred to as a meteor, and the meteorites are the ones that make it to the ground. So, basically you are making wishes on falling dirt debris from a comet.  For us hopeless romantics, we are still calling them falling stars, and we are still making wishes.  


The Earth orbits the Sun, as do the comets. This enables us to predict certain meteor showers. The Earth is bombarded with tons of meteors daily, when the particles slam into our atmosphere at speeds of up to 100 km per second and create trails as they burn up.  There are predictable showers when the Earth comes in contact with debris from a particular comet.  During the Perseid Meteor Shower, when the Earth plows through the particles of debris left by comet Swift Tuttle,  the viewer can behold as many as 50-60 meteors an hour!  The peak time is at midnight, right in the middle of dusk and dawn, from August 11 - 13.  

We decided to go to Frazier Park and Mt. Pinos, less than a 2 hour drive from Santa Monica and Los Angeles.  Mt. Pinos, located in between Ventura and Kern County, is the highest point in Ventura County and the highest peak in Los Padres National Forest at 8847 ft.   The Nordic Base Camp parking lot is close to the summit and is very popular with the astronomy crowd and there are small hikes through pines and meadows of flowers to amazing views. 

Beautiful forest of Pinion and
Jeffrey Pines

We arrived at the Nordic Base Camp  around 3:00 p.m. so that we could hike and then return to to the parking lot to eat a packed dinner and view the stars.  When we arrived, there were already people setting up their telescopes for the night viewing.  We parked then looked for trail maps.  The hikes are not clearly defined, although there are many to choose from that lead off of the parking lot.  I wanted to hike to Sawmill Peak, but had no clue which trail led there.  Also, there is a wildlife viewing area where you can look for condors, the most rare and the largest flying land bird in North America with a wing span that can reach 10 feet and can weigh up to 24 pounds, among other creatures like black bears and mule deer.  

Gooseberries

Fields of yellow flowers in
meadows

We took a trail above the Nordic Base building and stayed on the well marked trail and it turned out to be 2 miles to the wildlife viewing area and views of the  valleys.  The trail is half shade as you meander through pine forests with a few sunny meadows in between. Its an easy hike with nominal elevation change, but you are up 8300 feet so I became winded a few times when rock scrambling at the top.   Bring water, sunscreen, camera, a light jacket and a snack for the trail.  We saw an unidentified animal bolt across the trail (lower to the ground than a deer, but beige short hair) and also found a geo cache treasure box on top of one of the boulders the boys climbed up.  

Cell phone picture I took of the moon
through a telescope!!

Bob and home made
telescope

When the sun went down, it was incredibly cold for August.  It is about 20 degrees cooler as you drive up the mountain to the base camp, so bring winter wear.  Seriously, it was 90 degrees on the 5 freeway and we were freezing when the sun went down at the star viewing so we will bring sleeping bags, beanies, gloves, and ski jackets next time. The energy and excitement kept us going until sunset, but then we were struggling to keep warm while waiting for the planetary show.  We had a crescent moon, but once it set, we saw so many stars, saw nebulae, Saturn, and the moon through amazing telescopes with state-of-the-art technology, met Paul who creates the night sky on t-shirts with glow in the dark paint, and Bob who made his own reflecting telescope with a 26 inch mirror.  It was all very entertaining, while we waited for the true "stars" to show up, and they did not disappoint. 


 I made lots of wishes on dust debris last night, heard lots of "oohhhsss"  and "ahhhhs"  from the crowd as we watched
natures fireworks together, and had an amazing adventure with my favorite boys.

To get to Mt. Pinos, take the I-5 freeway 85 miles north of Los Angeles  to the Frazier Mountain Park Road exit.  Turn left and go up the mountain 7 miles, where it will turn into Cuddy Valley Road, continue 5 more miles.  You will come to an intersection with arrows, turn left and follow directions to Mount Pinos Road.  Follow this road 8.5 miles to the top and Nordic Base Camp parking lot.  


  




     

Corral Canyon Cave Hike towards Mesa Peak

The Caves

It was a lovely day for a hike, but we had a few work schedules to work around, so  we needed to find an easy. amazing hike with views that we could do around sunset.  Corral Canyon fit the bill.  It is a part of the Backbone Trail that starts  at the top of Corral Canyon and turns into Mesa  Peak Motorway, far from the crowds on a busy beach and hiking day.

Elephant Rock  

I liked this hike for its scavenger hunt appeal and the flat rock areas perfect for a happy hour spread.  Hike east from the parking lot towards the sandstone outcroppings, and follow a narrow trail through the slots and boulders.  Elephant rock, a small arch rock will be on the right side of the trail.  The trail becomes shady in spots and varies from uphill to downhill.  

Look for a car graveyard to the left of the trail in the bushes.  About a half mile into the hike, you will join a larger trail, Mesa Peak Motorway.  Continue hiking eastward, and the next set of geological formations will have a few caves to crawl in and a boulder to climb. There's also  a circular rock garden.   At the top of the boulder is where we decided to have happy hour.  

 We arrived at 6:00 p.m. and left around 8 :00 p.m.  So for a fast and easy access, it was great and the canyon and ocean views are amazing from the sandstone boulders.  If you want a longer hike, the Mesa Motorway continues all the way to Malibu Canyon. 

 

From Santa Monica, give yourself 45 minutes to the trailhead.  Take PCH towards Malibu, for about a half hour, passing the town of Malibu and Pepperdine University.  Turn right on Corral Canyon.  Follow the road to the end, it will become a gravel road, and parking will be a 

quarter of a mile on the gravel.

  

To keep the adventure going, I suggest eating at Old Place, http://www.yelp.com/biz/old-place-restaurant-agoura-hills a gem of a find hidden in the hills off of Kanan Dume Road.  The ambience is like no other, and it is small, so expect a wait, or try to make reservations in one of the three booths, but reservations are restricted to three time slots.  It is approximately a 45 minute drive from the trailhead, but you are very close to the 101 freeway for the drive home.  

Havasupai: Journey to the Land that Remembers

"

Havasu Falls

"Our truest lives are when we are in dreams awake," Henry David Thoreau.  My daughter Brittany and I have been dreaming of the land of the blue-green waters for at least ten years.  I do not know how we first learned of the Havasupai tribe, how we learned about the lush oasis of green, red, and aqua blue colors with sweeping vistas and large waterfalls and pools, but after we saw pictures of Havasu Falls and how difficult it was to visit, the carrot dangled before us.  We made plans in advance in 2007, and were extremely disappointed when the floods of 2008 destroyed the trail into the village.  Then life happened, and once again Brittany started to think about making the trip in January 2013 and we made it to Havasu Falls last week.  

Of all the hikes, of all the adventures, of all the vacations, this one left me humbled, hopeful, grateful, and stronger in spirit and body.  It was a religious experience, one that has touched me   and has made me a different person.  I left the Grand Canyon and Supai with stronger life lessons: when "quitting is not an option"  you find that you can accomplish great things with little remaining strength.    Also "true appreciation comes from something that you work hard for. "  I have never appreciated the refreshing aqua waters as much as when we hiked nine miles with forty pound packs to find our campsite next to a beautiful aqua pool..   It was truly heaven.   

Mooney Falls, named after the miner

 D.W. James Mooney, who in 1882 was 

mining the area when his companion was injured. 

Mooney tried to climb up the falls with his injured 

friend tied to his back, and subsequently fell to his 

death.  

There is a trail on the left side, looking

downstream, that leads to the

bottom of Mooney Falls.  The trail is 

dangerous  but with the aids 

of strategically placed handholds, chains, and 

ladders, it is well traversed.   On the descent down to

 the base of the 200 ft. waterfall, the first part 

is relatively easy until a small 

passageway/cave is reached, which is barely

 large enough to squeeze through. 

 At this point  and onward, it is precarious.
There is another small cave tunnel,
and then the rest is basically 

a vertical drop down with some ladders,
and some without ladders and just chains

 and handholds.  If you are afraid of heights, 

this is going to be tough at best. This was the 

only way down to the base and to the trail to
Beaver Falls, and the only way back
to the campsite.  

We were a  tribe, seven strong.  We brought many personalities, strengths, compassion, and 

empathies to our village- the campsite- the rugged and surreal place we would call home for four days and three nights.  We learned to lean on each other, trust each other, we spoke softly and got along, and we learned how to survive in this new wilderness with hydration and salty foods.  We became nurses, doctors, counselors and therapists.  We came across hard times in triple digit temps; with a limited water supply on one of our hikes, we had to strategize on how to make it back to the campsite on the combination of H2O left in our camelbacks, and hiked with badly skinned knees and blisters on our feet.  We learned that we could overcome a fear of heights and climb down a sheer vertical rock face, sometimes bearing our weight entirely with our arms, not seeing enough of the next step to be certain that we were doing the right thing when swinging on the given chains bolted to the rock. We learned that we had what it took to climb back up the same rock face pulling our tired bodies up with our arms,  after an exhausting eight mile hike in triple digit temps.    We found our breaking points, witholding tears until it was safe to let them go.  

50 Foot Waterfall or Lower Navajo Falls.  Whatever goes 

into the creek-due to its high concentration of calcium 

carbonate-is mineralized quickly.  The creek is constantly 

changing because of this and due to seasonal flash

flooding.  In 2008, flooding created mudslides and the 

result was that the water bypassed Navajo Falls entirely

and created two new waterfalls.  This is one of them, popular

for jumping off of.  

We appreciated the mist from the falls that cooled us, the breathtaking beauty of the red iron cliffs of the Grand Canyon in contrast with the deep green foliage and high alkaline limestone coloring the aqua blue waters, the travertine and limestone rocks that made it easy to jump from rock to rock and never lose your footing.  We even appreciated freeze dried food and sharing each night what we brought to the picnic table.  We worked hard for every breathtaking moment!!

This was Supai to us.

With that said, I hope i have prepared you effectively.  It is by no means an easy hike but one you will never forget!! Yes, you can helicopter in and out, but you would leave without the real experience.  I truly believe theat this one needs to be difficult for you to reap the rewards.  It is not a vacation, it is an adventure.

To start planning you will need to make reservations for the campsites.  This was the difficult part as the village of Supai does not man their phone lines.  You must keep calling with diligence!!  Once you have the campsite reservations you can pay for the campsite and you can reserve a helicopter or packing mules for the trip back out at the village. From Los Angeles, it is about a 6 hour drive to Kingman.  We spent the night at the Holiday Inn Express http://www.ihg.com/holidayinnexpress/hotels/us/en/kingman/igmaz/hoteldetail?cm_mmc=mdpr-_-GoogleMaps-_-ex-_-igmaz, and returned to stay here on the way out.  They kept our overnight bags in the hotel for us, so that our stuff wouldn't be in the hot car for days. We ate at Kingman Steak House http://kingmancosteakhouse.com/ which had amazing prime rib and yummy steak salads.  We left the hotel at 2 a.m. and were surprised at how many people were up at this time! Its the way of the desert I guess!  Be sure to fill up the tank in Kingman, because services will be scarce for the rest of the  1 1/2 hour drive.  We headed out to Hualapai Hilltop, which is where you park your car for the hike.  Take Route 66 towards Peach Springs, and after the small town of Peach Springs look for Highway 18. Turn left and follow this crazy road for 75 miles.... I say crazy because in the dark you will be dodging cows, elk, and rodents. When you arrive at the Hilltop, which is the top of the Grand Canyon, park your car in designated areas.  Make sure that snacks and electrolytes are accessible for the hike down as well as at least two liters of water.  

You will pass Hualapai Indian Reservation in Peach Springs. Ethnically the Havasupai and Hualapai are the same people, but are politically separate groups by government policy.  They were hunters and gatherers, and their main crop was corn, along with beans, squash and gourds. The Spanish introduced them to other crops including watermelon, melons and orchard trees.  Before the 1800s, the Havasupai laid claim to an area the size of Delaware.  In 1882, President Arthur issued an executive order that all land on the plateau would become public property of the United States, which limited the tribe to 518 acres (Supai Village) and took away their winter home on the plateau.  Morale became low, and the Havasupais resorted to drinking, violence and gambling. 

A health problem ensued within the tribe, and an infant and child mortality increase almost decimated the remaining population. In 1920, to help combat the issue of floods destroying their crops on their remaining 518 acres, the government assisted the tribe in developing their irrigation system which prevented soil erosion and water control.   In 1975, after almost a hundred years of fighting to regain the land that was taken from them, President Gerald Ford signed a trust title to the Havasupais for 188,077 acres at the western side of the South Rim of the Grand Canyon with another 95,000 acres to be supervised by National Park Service but available for traditional use by the Havasupai.  Supai Village is the most remote village in the lower 48 states.  Their supplies are helicoptered in.  Their mail is delivered by mules.  The Yuman Dialect spoken by the Havasupais is the only Native American language in the United States of America spoken by 100% of its indigenous population.  

The hike to Supai, the village of the Havasupais, is about 8 miles long.  The first mile and a half is the steepest part of the hike and when you will descend 2000 feet to the base of the Grand Canyon.  The rest of the hike to the village is mostly level in a dry bed.  When you arrive to a sign that says "Supai Village, you are almost there!" you are NOT almost there.  It is about another hour to the office where you will register.  So keep hydrating and don't pick up the pace thinking you are almost done!  Once you register at the village, it is another mile and a half to two miles and a half to the campgrounds and campsites.  Some of it is downhill and most of it is in soft sand.  It is a real BEAR to do this after 10 a.m. in the summer.  You are really racing against the sun!  Start the hike EARLY and give yourself about 6 hours to complete.  On the way out, remember that you are hiking UP to the hilltop, so it is very important to leave early. We started breaking our tents at 2 a.m.  for the hike back to the hilltop.  

Havasu Falls, 50 foot falls, and Navajo Falls are before the campgrounds.  Mooney and Beaver Falls are after the campgrounds.  Mooney Falls is very close to the campgrounds, and to reach the base you need to descend the cliffs on ladders, chains, and rock stairs.    Beaver Falls is 4 miles from Mooney Falls and is almost like being on an obstacle course trail, with stairs etched into vertical logs, larger ladders, and overgrown grapevine arbors to clamber through.  All are beautiful hikes but bring plenty of water and snacks.  

It is romantic to think that the land will remember us, as the Havasupais think.  They believe that the land is a living being and has a close and loving relationship with humans.  In "the Farewell Song of the Havasupai"  it describes the land as a living emotional entity in which retains the memory of those that travel there. What a beautiful thought, because I know that I will always have the memory of this magical oasis in the middle of the desert.  "That's what I want, what I want. ha na" 

Mt. Baldy (Mt San Antonio) Adventure

On a clear day, a snow capped mountain dwarfs the skyscrapers of Los Angeles:  Mount Baldy at 10,064 feet is the highest peak in the San Gabriel Mountains.  When a meetup posted a hike to the summit, two things came to mind...the driving distance to Mt. Baldy (where is it exactly?!) and is the elevation gain something that I could do without training?  Then the most important, IS IT REALLY GOING TO BE 90 DEGREE WEATHER?!!!  

Jeff and I decided, at the last minute, when the temperature forecast went down to the 80's, to commit and do our best!  (We can always turn around and not do the entire hike, we reasoned).  It was labeled as a 6.5 mile 2700 feet elevation gain "not an easy" hike.  Bring it!!

  

The meetup was an entire day commitment, from the drive to Mt. Baldy to the band and stargazing at the end.  We invited Jeff's daughter, Maddie too.  And off we went at 10 a.m. to meet the rest of the group at the Notch.  It takes approximately an hour and a half  from Santa Monica to get to Mt. Baldy.  Take the 10E to the 605N to the 210E.  Take Baseline exit, turn left on Baseline, then right on Padua, and right on Mt. Baldy Rd.  Follow signs to Mt. Baldy.  It will dead end at the ski lift up to the Notch.

Ski lift tickets can be purchased there, at $25 per person.  Check out travelzoo, as they were offering two lift tickets for $19 online, but they must be purchased twenty four hours in advance.  You can also check out the events offered at the Notch Lodge, including upcoming concerts and make reservations for lift tickets for that date.  I highly recommend going when they have an event...nothing better after a hike than a beer and some live music and relaxing by the fire pit!!

The Notch is at the top of the ski lift ride, and is at an elevation of 7800 feet.  By taking the lift, you take 1500 feet off of your hike!  The first mile of the hike is steep and I was thinking "this is crazy!"  but it does level off at some point and it isn't as steep.  Just think about the glute burning...thats what kept me going! Its great exercise!!  

During the "easier" part of the hike, enjoy the sugar pines and the wildflowers.  Jeff and Maddie saw a deer too!  And the views off the cliffs are breathtaking.  Be sure to hydrate every time you are winded and have to stop.  Its much easier to drink when you stop.  And that way you get plenty to drink.  Its too late to hydrate if you feel that you are thirsty!  And I never burn, but I could feel the sun on my shoulders after the first half hour, so I put on sunscreen.  

The last mile of the hike is nar nar.  There is no other word, or words for it.  Its steep, narrow at times, and you are at 9000 feet, which means that you get winded.  I would stop after 15 steps.  And you get belligerent.  Hikers were coming down, and I couldnt even move to get out of their way. My legs were like rubber.   I just wanted to get up the damn mountain!!  Every hiker on the descent had a smile on their face and words of encouragement.  I mustered a thank you...but still couldnt budge!!  There was one kid, a little tike of but 8 or 9 years old that corrected his dad when he told me that I had 15 minutes to go..."you're almost there!!"  "NO!"  the kid said.  "You will have a level area but then you have another steeper area and it is really hard.  You have about 45 more minutes!"  I almost tackled him with what the remaining strength I had!  But then as he passed me he said "but you can do it!  I have faith in you!"  I was too tired to even giggle.  But once at the summit, and after a 45 minute lunch break, you feel amazing, like you really tackled a huge hike!!  And you have!! The summit is at 10,064 feet.

After lunch, the descent was a breeze.  I didn't stop once.  I found a hiking buddy with the same pace and we talked the entire way down to the lodge.  At the lodge, I waited for Jeff and Maddie, and we sat down at the bar and watched the Kings game. The rest of our group trickled in, and the fire pit area was claimed as well as a dance area by the band.  The evening ended with a ski lift ride in total darkness.  Exhilarating!  Fun!  

You gotta do this hike, at least once!  If I can do it, you can!!