Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Havasupai: Journey to the Land that Remembers

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Havasu Falls

"Our truest lives are when we are in dreams awake," Henry David Thoreau.  My daughter Brittany and I have been dreaming of the land of the blue-green waters for at least ten years.  I do not know how we first learned of the Havasupai tribe, how we learned about the lush oasis of green, red, and aqua blue colors with sweeping vistas and large waterfalls and pools, but after we saw pictures of Havasu Falls and how difficult it was to visit, the carrot dangled before us.  We made plans in advance in 2007, and were extremely disappointed when the floods of 2008 destroyed the trail into the village.  Then life happened, and once again Brittany started to think about making the trip in January 2013 and we made it to Havasu Falls last week.  

Of all the hikes, of all the adventures, of all the vacations, this one left me humbled, hopeful, grateful, and stronger in spirit and body.  It was a religious experience, one that has touched me   and has made me a different person.  I left the Grand Canyon and Supai with stronger life lessons: when "quitting is not an option"  you find that you can accomplish great things with little remaining strength.    Also "true appreciation comes from something that you work hard for. "  I have never appreciated the refreshing aqua waters as much as when we hiked nine miles with forty pound packs to find our campsite next to a beautiful aqua pool..   It was truly heaven.   

Mooney Falls, named after the miner
 D.W. James Mooney, who in 1882 was 
mining the area when his companion was injured. 
Mooney tried to climb up the falls with his injured 
friend tied to his back, and subsequently fell to his 
death.  
There is a trail on the left side, looking
downstream, that leads to the
bottom of Mooney Falls.  The trail is 
dangerous  but with the aids 
of strategically placed handholds, chains, and 
ladders, it is well traversed.   On the descent down to
 the base of the 200 ft. waterfall, the first part 
is relatively easy until a small 
passageway/cave is reached, which is barely
 large enough to squeeze through. 



















 At this point  and onward, it is precarious.
There is another small cave tunnel,
and then the rest is basically 
a vertical drop down with some ladders,
and some without ladders and just chains
 and handholds.  If you are afraid of heights, 
this is going to be tough at best. This was the 
only way down to the base and to the trail to
Beaver Falls, and the only way back
to the campsite.  



















We were a  tribe, seven strong.  We brought many personalities, strengths, compassion, and 
empathies to our village- the campsite- the rugged and surreal place we would call home for four days and three nights.  We learned to lean on each other, trust each other, we spoke softly and got along, and we learned how to survive in this new wilderness with hydration and salty foods.  We became nurses, doctors, counselors and therapists.  We came across hard times in triple digit temps; with a limited water supply on one of our hikes, we had to strategize on how to make it back to the campsite on the combination of H2O left in our camelbacks, and hiked with badly skinned knees and blisters on our feet.  We learned that we could overcome a fear of heights and climb down a sheer vertical rock face, sometimes bearing our weight entirely with our arms, not seeing enough of the next step to be certain that we were doing the right thing when swinging on the given chains bolted to the rock. We learned that we had what it took to climb back up the same rock face pulling our tired bodies up with our arms,  after an exhausting eight mile hike in triple digit temps.    We found our breaking points, witholding tears until it was safe to let them go.  


50 Foot Waterfall or Lower Navajo Falls.  Whatever goes 
into the creek-due to its high concentration of calcium 
carbonate-is mineralized quickly.  The creek is constantly 
changing because of this and due to seasonal flash
flooding.  In 2008, flooding created mudslides and the 
result was that the water bypassed Navajo Falls entirely
and created two new waterfalls.  This is one of them, popular
for jumping off of.  


We appreciated the mist from the falls that cooled us, the breathtaking beauty of the red iron cliffs of the Grand Canyon in contrast with the deep green foliage and high alkaline limestone coloring the aqua blue waters, the travertine and limestone rocks that made it easy to jump from rock to rock and never lose your footing.  We even appreciated freeze dried food and sharing each night what we brought to the picnic table.  We worked hard for every breathtaking moment!!
This was Supai to us.











With that said, I hope i have prepared you effectively.  It is by no means an easy hike but one you will never forget!! Yes, you can helicopter in and out, but you would leave without the real experience.  I truly believe theat this one needs to be difficult for you to reap the rewards.  It is not a vacation, it is an adventure.

To start planning you will need to make reservations for the campsites.  This was the difficult part as the village of Supai does not man their phone lines.  You must keep calling with diligence!!  Once you have the campsite reservations you can pay for the campsite and you can reserve a helicopter or packing mules for the trip back out at the village. From Los Angeles, it is about a 6 hour drive to Kingman.  We spent the night at the Holiday Inn Express http://www.ihg.com/holidayinnexpress/hotels/us/en/kingman/igmaz/hoteldetail?cm_mmc=mdpr-_-GoogleMaps-_-ex-_-igmaz, and returned to stay here on the way out.  They kept our overnight bags in the hotel for us, so that our stuff wouldn't be in the hot car for days. We ate at Kingman Steak House http://kingmancosteakhouse.com/ which had amazing prime rib and yummy steak salads.  We left the hotel at 2 a.m. and were surprised at how many people were up at this time! Its the way of the desert I guess!  Be sure to fill up the tank in Kingman, because services will be scarce for the rest of the  1 1/2 hour drive.  We headed out to Hualapai Hilltop, which is where you park your car for the hike.  Take Route 66 towards Peach Springs, and after the small town of Peach Springs look for Highway 18. Turn left and follow this crazy road for 75 miles.... I say crazy because in the dark you will be dodging cows, elk, and rodents. When you arrive at the Hilltop, which is the top of the Grand Canyon, park your car in designated areas.  Make sure that snacks and electrolytes are accessible for the hike down as well as at least two liters of water.  


You will pass Hualapai Indian Reservation in Peach Springs. Ethnically the Havasupai and Hualapai are the same people, but are politically separate groups by government policy.  They were hunters and gatherers, and their main crop was corn, along with beans, squash and gourds. The Spanish introduced them to other crops including watermelon, melons and orchard trees.  Before the 1800s, the Havasupai laid claim to an area the size of Delaware.  In 1882, President Arthur issued an executive order that all land on the plateau would become public property of the United States, which limited the tribe to 518 acres (Supai Village) and took away their winter home on the plateau.  Morale became low, and the Havasupais resorted to drinking, violence and gambling. 


A health problem ensued within the tribe, and an infant and child mortality increase almost decimated the remaining population. In 1920, to help combat the issue of floods destroying their crops on their remaining 518 acres, the government assisted the tribe in developing their irrigation system which prevented soil erosion and water control.   In 1975, after almost a hundred years of fighting to regain the land that was taken from them, President Gerald Ford signed a trust title to the Havasupais for 188,077 acres at the western side of the South Rim of the Grand Canyon with another 95,000 acres to be supervised by National Park Service but available for traditional use by the Havasupai.  Supai Village is the most remote village in the lower 48 states.  Their supplies are helicoptered in.  Their mail is delivered by mules.  The Yuman Dialect spoken by the Havasupais is the only Native American language in the United States of America spoken by 100% of its indigenous population.  

The hike to Supai, the village of the Havasupais, is about 8 miles long.  The first mile and a half is the steepest part of the hike and when you will descend 2000 feet to the base of the Grand Canyon.  The rest of the hike to the village is mostly level in a dry bed.  When you arrive to a sign that says "Supai Village, you are almost there!" you are NOT almost there.  It is about another hour to the office where you will register.  So keep hydrating and don't pick up the pace thinking you are almost done!  Once you register at the village, it is another mile and a half to two miles and a half to the campgrounds and campsites.  Some of it is downhill and most of it is in soft sand.  It is a real BEAR to do this after 10 a.m. in the summer.  You are really racing against the sun!  Start the hike EARLY and give yourself about 6 hours to complete.  On the way out, remember that you are hiking UP to the hilltop, so it is very important to leave early. We started breaking our tents at 2 a.m.  for the hike back to the hilltop.  
Havasu Falls, 50 foot falls, and Navajo Falls are before the campgrounds.  Mooney and Beaver Falls are after the campgrounds.  Mooney Falls is very close to the campgrounds, and to reach the base you need to descend the cliffs on ladders, chains, and rock stairs.    Beaver Falls is 4 miles from Mooney Falls and is almost like being on an obstacle course trail, with stairs etched into vertical logs, larger ladders, and overgrown grapevine arbors to clamber through.  All are beautiful hikes but bring plenty of water and snacks.  

It is romantic to think that the land will remember us, as the Havasupais think.  They believe that the land is a living being and has a close and loving relationship with humans.  In "the Farewell Song of the Havasupai"  it describes the land as a living emotional entity in which retains the memory of those that travel there. What a beautiful thought, because I know that I will always have the memory of this magical oasis in the middle of the desert.  "That's what I want, what I want. ha na" 


Sunday, June 9, 2013

Mt. Baldy (Mt San Antonio) Adventure





On a clear day, a snow capped mountain dwarfs the skyscrapers of Los Angeles:  Mount Baldy at 10,064 feet is the highest peak in the San Gabriel Mountains.  When a meetup posted a hike to the summit, two things came to mind...the driving distance to Mt. Baldy (where is it exactly?!) and is the elevation gain something that I could do without training?  Then the most important, IS IT REALLY GOING TO BE 90 DEGREE WEATHER?!!!  

Jeff and I decided, at the last minute, when the temperature forecast went down to the 80's, to commit and do our best!  (We can always turn around and not do the entire hike, we reasoned).  It was labeled as a 6.5 mile 2700 feet elevation gain "not an easy" hike.  Bring it!!
  
The meetup was an entire day commitment, from the drive to Mt. Baldy to the band and stargazing at the end.  We invited Jeff's daughter, Maddie too.  And off we went at 10 a.m. to meet the rest of the group at the Notch.  It takes approximately an hour and a half  from Santa Monica to get to Mt. Baldy.  Take the 10E to the 605N to the 210E.  Take Baseline exit, turn left on Baseline, then right on Padua, and right on Mt. Baldy Rd.  Follow signs to Mt. Baldy.  It will dead end at the ski lift up to the Notch.


Ski lift tickets can be purchased there, at $25 per person.  Check out travelzoo, as they were offering two lift tickets for $19 online, but they must be purchased twenty four hours in advance.  You can also check out the events offered at the Notch Lodge, including upcoming concerts and make reservations for lift tickets for that date.  I highly recommend going when they have an event...nothing better after a hike than a beer and some live music and relaxing by the fire pit!!



The Notch is at the top of the ski lift ride, and is at an elevation of 7800 feet.  By taking the lift, you take 1500 feet off of your hike!  The first mile of the hike is steep and I was thinking "this is crazy!"  but it does level off at some point and it isn't as steep.  Just think about the glute burning...thats what kept me going! Its great exercise!!  


During the "easier" part of the hike, enjoy the sugar pines and the wildflowers.  Jeff and Maddie saw a deer too!  And the views off the cliffs are breathtaking.  Be sure to hydrate every time you are winded and have to stop.  Its much easier to drink when you stop.  And that way you get plenty to drink.  Its too late to hydrate if you feel that you are thirsty!  And I never burn, but I could feel the sun on my shoulders after the first half hour, so I put on sunscreen.  
The last mile of the hike is nar nar.  There is no other word, or words for it.  Its steep, narrow at times, and you are at 9000 feet, which means that you get winded.  I would stop after 15 steps.  And you get belligerent.  Hikers were coming down, and I couldnt even move to get out of their way. My legs were like rubber.   I just wanted to get up the damn mountain!!  Every hiker on the descent had a smile on their face and words of encouragement.  I mustered a thank you...but still couldnt budge!!  There was one kid, a little tike of but 8 or 9 years old that corrected his dad when he told me that I had 15 minutes to go..."you're almost there!!"  "NO!"  the kid said.  "You will have a level area but then you have another steeper area and it is really hard.  You have about 45 more minutes!"  I almost tackled him with what the remaining strength I had!  But then as he passed me he said "but you can do it!  I have faith in you!"  I was too tired to even giggle.  But once at the summit, and after a 45 minute lunch break, you feel amazing, like you really tackled a huge hike!!  And you have!! The summit is at 10,064 feet.
After lunch, the descent was a breeze.  I didn't stop once.  I found a hiking buddy with the same pace and we talked the entire way down to the lodge.  At the lodge, I waited for Jeff and Maddie, and we sat down at the bar and watched the Kings game. The rest of our group trickled in, and the fire pit area was claimed as well as a dance area by the band.  The evening ended with a ski lift ride in total darkness.  Exhilarating!  Fun!  
You gotta do this hike, at least once!  If I can do it, you can!!  

Antelope Slot Canyon, Utah

Ready to skip town and get some sun So Cal peeps?  A trip to Utah will warm you up!!  Its about 6 hours and 45 minutes to Zion from Santa Monica, and then another 57 minutes to Kanab to stay at the Parry Lodge before hiking through the slot canyons the next day.  If you leave early Saturday, you can see enough of the spectacular Zion that day, spend the night Saturday night in Kanab, hike the slot canyons Saturday and see the dam and Colorado River, and make it home late Sunday night, a little tired and dirty but quite an adventure!!
Its always good to check the weather first;  http://www.weather.com/outlook/recreation/outdoors/overview/UTNPZION
Bring plenty of sunscreen and water, and nibbles for the slot canyon hike.

We stopped in Springdale for lunch and to look around.  The town was originally settled as a Mormon community in 1862, and was recently named one of the prettiest towns in the United States by Forbes Traveler 2008.  There are approximately 600 people living there. They have a cool rock store on the main street that we stopped in.  You can also pick up the shuttle to the popular hikes in Zion from here and beat the traffic.  http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/shuttle-system.htm.  We took our chances and drove to the main area at Zion, and took the shuttle to the stops for the hikes.  Its very convenient, there are about 8 stops, and the shuttles come every 15 to 20 minutes.  

We had time for three fast-paced hikes before the shuttle stopped running for the day.  We chose the Temple of SInawava, Weeping Rock and the Grotto.  The Grotto had water and we had to wade through it to continue our hike through the narrows.  
 On our way out of Zion, we saw bighorn sheep on the cliffs with their kids.  Its amazing how they can hug the cliffs and hop around.  We watched them awhile before driving out of Zion.  

It took about an hour on the 9 East to get to Kanab.  We checked into Parry Lodge, a trippy little 
place where old school country western stars would stay. It is listed in the National Registry of Historic Places. Apparently the Parry Brothers started by helping the movie industry with their transportation needs while filming in Southern Utah.  The first film that was produced there was in 1923.  
The brothers opened the Parry Lodge in 1931 as a place to feed and lodge cast and crew and called on Hollywood's movie execs to promote filming in Utah.  Apparently it was very successful, as more tham 100 feature films were produced in Utah, including The Lone Ranger and Wagon Train, as well as TV shows like Gunsmoke, Rin Tin Tin, Lassie, and Daniel Boone.  There is a feel of being in a part of western history while staying there, from the name plates above some of the rooms where famous people stayed, to the signed autographs in the restaurant of John Wayne and Dale Evans among others.

The next day we headed to the slot canyons of Antelope Valley.  It is about an hour drive from Parry Lodge.  Head towards Page, Arizona. You will pass the controversial Glen Canyon Dam, a must stop if you have time, because there is talk of removing it to regenerate the natural flow of the Colorado River.  Its reservoir is Lake Powell, the second largest artificial lake in the country.  There are 45 minute tours at the center that take you through the dam, but you need to make reservations.  Contact the Glen Canyon Tour  Program at (928) 608-6072.  Tours are $5 per person and must be made 24 hours in advance and paid for in person at the Carl Hayden Visitor Center.  




Continue towards Antelope Valley Slot Canyons which are just outside Page, close to AZ 98 a few miles east of town, at milepost 299 (yeah you are out in the middle of nowhere!).  You are also on Navajo Indian Reservation land, so permits must be obtained, and you have to have a native American tour guide to take you through the canyons.  



Antelope is the most visited slot canyon in the southwest due to professional photographers visiting for amazing shots in ideal conditions.  The tour guide helped me with my shots, and some of them turned out beautiful from my cell phone camera!  The lower slot canyon is off the main road, is less expensive, and is just as beautiful.  This is the one we chose.  

The tour guide is basically for technicality and safety, because it would be difficult to get lost.  In August 1997, 11 people were drowned when water 50 feet deep swept through the canyon from a thunderstorm five miles away.  This also resulted in the canyon becoming four feet deeper.  Now, a tour guide is mandatory and its pricey, about $20 per person.  Our tour guide, a Navajo Indian, was funny, helpful, and even played a guitar while we were in the canyon.  Once you are in the canyon you can basically do whatever you want.  We could get far ahead of the small group and take pictures and enjoy the silence and beauty.  






We headed back to Los Angeles around 5 p.m. and decided to take the route through Zion again.  We spotted more bighorn sheep and the lighting for pictures was amazing.  
It was a fast and furious trip with lots of exercise and interesting places to visit.  We had a fun time!!